Choice Tables - Singapore’s Culinary Melting Pot

UNTIL recently, Singapore’s food scene was ruled by two very different eating experiences: the city’s venerated street stalls, appropriately glorified by food writers like Calvin Trillin; and upscale European-style restaurants like Iggy’s and Au Jardin.

But a small group of chefs is reinventing the city’s traditional food culture, finding a balancing point between the city’s cheap but...